Papua New Guinea (PNG) lies about 150 km off the Australian mainland and boasts a population of nearly 10 million. As the second most populous country in Oceania after Australia, PNG is home to the world’s third-largest rainforest, following the Amazon and Congo. Despite occupying less than 0.5% of the Earth’s landmass, this country holds 5% of the planet’s biodiversity—one of the 17 “megadiverse” countries.
This was one of my most unexpected trips. I’ll walk you through everything, from the fascinating to the uncomfortable.
A Land of Cultural and Linguistic Diversity
PNG’s population is said to be one of the most diverse on the planet. With over 800 languages spoken, it’s even more linguistically diverse than India! The country is divided into thousands of communities, many of which have populations of just a few hundred. Some tribes still follow ancient customs, including stories about cannibalism, though they remain isolated deep in the forests.
I started my journey in Port Moresby, the capital city. Let me tell you—this city has a reputation for crime. Armed robberies and carjackings are commonplace, and the locals seem to have developed a certain immunity to it. Cars are surrounded by gangs in broad daylight, with armed thieves demanding money and vehicles at gunpoint.
The Chaos of Port Moresby
On my first full day in the city, I decided to explore the capital. After checking into my hotel, I encountered my first issue: terrible service. It took several attempts to get bottled water, and the shower wasn’t working. A hotel staff member even barged into my room without knocking, only to claim she had knocked. I quickly realized that customer service here was practically non-existent.
Walking outside? Not a good idea. The hotel staff told me it’s unsafe to walk around—always take a cab. Even taxis come with warnings since hijackings are so frequent. The locals were friendly enough, but the level of carelessness and lack of responsibility stood out to me, something I hadn’t experienced in many other countries.
Surviving a Strange Day in PNG
I hit the gym later in the day, but even getting there was an adventure. Public transportation is unreliable, and walking isn’t an option for safety reasons. A local taxi driver named Jerry became my companion for the day. He explained how dangerous things could get—if you’re in the wrong cab, you could be kidnapped or robbed.
Though the people here seemed polite, I couldn’t help but feel uncomfortable. Imagine driving with windows rolled up and doors locked, fearing someone might snatch your phone through the window. I kept my phone tucked away for most of the ride.
A Bit of Nature: The Escape I Needed
One thing I enjoyed was visiting the Port Moresby Nature Park. It was a refreshing change from the city chaos, filled with unique wildlife. I saw exotic animals, including tree kangaroos and colorful birds, which I had never even heard of. The park also highlighted PNG’s biodiversity, which is incredible—many species here aren’t even documented by science yet.
Inside the park, I came across tribes with intriguing customs. One tribe, known as the “crocodile men,” practices a ritual where they carve crocodile-like scars on their skin to symbolize strength. This connection with nature and traditional practices gave me a glimpse into a different side of PNG—something that felt ancient and raw.
Navigating a Country with High Crime Rates
PNG’s crime statistics are alarming. Jerry, my taxi driver, told me stories about how gangs operate. Carjackings are a way of life here—criminals surround vehicles in traffic jams, hold drivers at gunpoint, and steal their cars. If you resist, you risk getting shot.
Even though the locals insisted that most people are friendly, it’s hard to feel relaxed in a place with such unpredictable crime. At one point, I was convinced my driver was exaggerating to keep me loyal to his services. It was both amusing and unsettling.
A Moment of Peace at a Five-Star Harbor
By the end of the day, we visited the Harborfront, the most modern part of the city. It felt like stepping into a different world—well-maintained roads, luxury buildings, and fancy restaurants overlooking the water. For a brief moment, I forgot I was in a city notorious for crime. I even stopped by an Indian restaurant, where I enjoyed familiar food.
The harbor area had a vibe that reminded me of home. Though PNG has its challenges, it’s in moments like these—eating good food by the waterfront—that you realize every place has its silver linings.
Final Thoughts on Papua New Guinea
Visiting PNG was unlike any other travel experience. There are only a few countries in the world that I might not return to, and this is one of them. The lack of safety, poor infrastructure, and unhelpful service made it a tough place to enjoy.
That said, the biodiversity and cultural richness of PNG are undeniable. It’s a country stuck between modern development and traditional ways, trying to find its footing. For adventurers, especially wildlife enthusiasts, it offers experiences that can’t be found elsewhere.
Would I recommend traveling here? Only if you’re well-prepared and aware of the risks. PNG isn’t for everyone, but it’s an eye-opener—a place where beauty and danger coexist in ways you won’t forget.
