By Paramvir for Gyddo
“Are you going there to die?” That’s what people at the airport asked when I mentioned my next destination was Haiti. From the pristine shores of the Bahamas to Cap-Haïtien, Haiti’s second-largest city, my journey offered a stark glimpse into the realities of life in the Americas’ poorest nation.
Getting There
The journey began with a morning walk to Nassau airport, where we boarded a small aircraft to Turks and Caicos for a layover. The contrast between the tourist-filled Bahamas and what awaited in Haiti couldn’t have been more dramatic. On our final leg to Cap-Haïtien, the atmosphere shifted – the plane filled with French-speaking Haitians, their animated conversations and reactions to every bump making it feel more like a carnival ride than a flight.
First Impressions
Cap-Haïtien’s airport set the tone for what was to come. It’s remarkably small – just four chairs in the entire arrival area, a non-functioning ATM, and a money exchange booth that closes after the day’s sole international flight. The most telling detail? The guard repeatedly locking and unlocking the arrival area gate to keep people from coming in and “causing trouble.”
The Reality of Tourism Infrastructure
Finding accommodation proved challenging. Our Airbnb booking was mysteriously cancelled without refund, and we quickly learned why Haiti sees so few tourists. The “cheapest” hotel in Cap-Haïtien cost us $133 for two nights – expensive by Indian standards but apparently a bargain here. Taxi drivers initially wanted $100 for a 6km ride from the airport, though we eventually arranged transport through our hotel for $20.
A Different World
The drive from the airport revealed a Haiti rarely seen in travel blogs. The poverty is unmistakable – streets lined with makeshift shops behind heavy security fencing, even right outside the airport. Auto-rickshaws reminiscent of India weave through streets strewn with garbage, even along the oceanfront. Unlike any of the 53 countries I’d visited before, Haiti presents a unique reality that can’t be sugar-coated.
Language and Currency
Haiti’s official languages are French and Haitian Creole, with most locals primarily speaking Creole. The currency, the Haitian Gourde, has seen significant depreciation – from 60 to over 150 per USD in just two years. This economic instability is reflected in every aspect of daily life.
The Hotel: An Oasis
Our hotel, despite being the “budget” option, surprised us with its quality. Perched on a hillside, it offers views of both the ocean and the surrounding neighborhoods. The staff warned us about safety – keep phones hidden while walking, stay alert for snatching, but assured us the immediate area was relatively safe compared to other parts of the city.
Food and Costs
The hotel menu reflects Haiti’s French influence, with prices that seem high by Indian standards but reasonable for the Caribbean – $7 for a hamburger or chicken sandwich, $6 for spaghetti. Everything is listed in French, a reminder that English-speaking tourists are rare here.
Looking Beyond Headlines
Despite Haiti’s reputation and obvious challenges, my initial impressions were mixed. Yes, there’s undeniable poverty and infrastructure issues, but there’s also humanity. Just as I found in other supposedly “dangerous” countries like Somalia and Syria, the people I’ve met so far have been friendly and helpful.
It’s too early to make definitive judgments, but Haiti already proves to be a country that defies simple categorization. It’s a place where stark realities exist alongside human resilience, where every experience seems to challenge preconceptions.
Stay tuned for more updates as I explore Cap-Haïtien and discover what lies beyond the hotel’s secure gates.
