Welcome to Port Moresby, the heart of Papua New Guinea. My experience here has been… well, let’s just say, interesting. From unexpected hospitality to some pretty challenging situations, this city has shown me both the beauty and chaos of life. Join me as I walk you through everything, from the messy streets to the hidden gems—and everything in between.
First Impressions: The Good, the Bad, and the Bumpy
Right off the bat, Port Moresby hits differently. As soon as I stepped out of the hotel, I realized I was in a place where things work a bit… differently. Customer service? Let’s just say it barely exists. I mean, I had to ask three times just to get bottled water, and the shower didn’t even work. At one point, a staff member barged into my room without knocking. When I called her out, she insisted she had knocked. Yeah, sure.
One thing became clear quickly—walking around the city is not safe. The hotel staff warned me not to explore on foot, so taxis were my only option. Even with taxis, they told me to stay alert because carjacking is common. I found myself locking car doors and keeping my phone hidden, just in case.
Meeting the Locals—and the Dogs
The people here are quite friendly, though, and I made some interesting connections. I spent most of my day with Jerry, a local taxi driver who seemed determined to make sure I survived the day without getting robbed. He shared stories about the city’s crime scene—gangs, robberies, carjackings, you name it. But amidst all the chaos, you can feel the warmth of the people. Kids waved at me as we passed, and some locals even wanted to chat.
And let’s not forget the dogs and cats. In crowded areas, they sometimes jump into the sewer water along with people. Yes, you heard that right—people. It’s part of life here. When the city gets too crowded, animals and people alike take a dip in the muddy water below the stilted houses.
A Peek into Village Life
We drove to Hanuabada Village, one of the largest villages in the city, built entirely on stilts over garbage-filled water. As I rolled down the windows, the stench hit me hard—garbage, sewage, and rotting stuff all mixed together. But what stood out most were the people. Despite living in such harsh conditions, they smiled, greeted us, and even invited us to play volleyball with them.
Walking through the village was an adventure in itself. Beneath the wooden planks we walked on was a sea of trash. One wrong step, and you’d fall straight into it. And trust me, if my phone had slipped from my hand into that water, I wouldn’t have bothered to pick it up.
But here’s the surprising part—the kids were happy. They played volleyball on a rough patch of road and table tennis on makeshift tables. No fancy courts or sports facilities, yet they had so much joy in the simple games they played. It was a humbling experience.
Modern Meets Rustic at the Waterfront
After exploring the village, we headed to the modern part of the city—the Downtown Waterfront. It felt like a completely different world. Clean streets, fancy restaurants, and modern stores surrounded us. For a moment, I forgot about the chaos in other parts of the city.
We stopped by an Indian restaurant to grab dinner. Funny enough, the country had banned alcohol for a whole week because the Indian Prime Minister, Narendra Modi, was visiting. That explained why people were on their best behavior. Everywhere we went, locals were polite and cautious, knowing that any trouble could get them into hot water with the authorities.
The restaurant experience was, well… let’s call it unique. We ordered food through a local delivery app, but it never arrived. When we tried to contact the restaurant, they claimed they had no record of our order. After a lot of back-and-forth, they finally served us some food hours later. Slow service seems to be the norm here, but hey, at least we got to eat in the end.
Final Thoughts on Port Moresby
Port Moresby is not an easy place to travel, but it’s certainly memorable. The mix of crime, poverty, and warmth from the locals makes it a place full of contradictions. It’s not for everyone—especially if you’re looking for comfort or smooth travel experiences. But if you’re an adventurer at heart, there’s something raw and real about this city that you won’t forget.
Would I visit again? Probably not. But I’ll always remember the smiles of the kids playing volleyball in the slums, the dogs jumping into the water, and the random acts of kindness from locals who had so little yet shared so much.
Port Moresby may not be the easiest place to love, but it shows you life in its most unfiltered form. And for that, I’ll always be grateful.
